He remembers well his childhood walking along the calm shores of Southern California. On those hot, windy days, his friends would skate by and clap him on the back, and he would chase them down to the rising tide where their boards were stuck in the sand. He wouldn’t return home until dark, lips chapped and feet sore, and he would peel off his wetsuit and fall right into his bed, muscle memory of the waves rocking him to sleep. He still tries to get out when he can, but of course, in his adult life, those days are luxuries. Nonetheless, that history is part of who he is, and one cannot regret the past when one is happy with the present.